The Art of 90s Film Point and Shoot Portraits: A Deep Dive into Harsh Light Photography
The Genesis of the Style
The 1990s was a period of significant innovation in the world of photography. One of the most distinctive styles to emerge during this time was the harsh or hard light portrait, a style that was born out of the limitations of the technology of the time.
Point and shoot cameras, which were popular during this period, were typically equipped with small flashes. These flashes, due to their size and proximity to the lens, produced a very direct and harsh light. This resulted in high-contrast images with deep shadows and bright highlights. The unique lighting effect was something that the everyday person could not achieve until the advent of these cameras.
The Rise to Popularity
While the harsh light portrait style was indeed being used by photographers, it was around the 80s/90s when the public began to notice it within their own images. This was a time when point and shoot cameras were becoming more accessible to the general public, and people were beginning to experiment with their built-in flash features.
Terry Richardson, a well-known fashion photographer, played a significant role in popularising this style within the professional realm. Known for his raw and candid style, Richardson took a camera - the Olympus MJU-II, a model typically used by families and friends to capture memories - and applied its native flash features to his professional work. This not only simplified his workflow but also resulted in the creation of simple, high contrast flash images that became a staple in fashion photography. Richardson’s work demonstrated that a tool as simple as a point and shoot camera could be used to create impactful and stylistic images, thereby contributing to the popularity of this style.
The Technique: How to Achieve the Style
While any flash can be used to achieve this style, a speed light is preferred due to its simplicity and the ability to use E/TTL (Through The Lens Metering) on top of your lens. The smaller the light source, the harsher the image will be. You can also go off-camera using a flash transmitter, allowing you to move the flash to any angle that you prefer.
Choice of Flash: Speed Light vs Others
While any flash can be used to achieve this style, a speed light is often preferred. This is due to its simplicity and the ability to use E/TTL (Through The Lens Metering) on top of your lens. E/TTL is a feature that allows the camera to meter the light through the lens, providing (ALMOST) accurate exposure for the flash. This can be particularly useful when shooting in changing light conditions, as it allows for quick adjustments to the flash output.
Understanding Light Source: Size Matters
The size of the light source plays a crucial role in achieving the harsh light effect. The smaller the light source, the harsher the image will be. This is because a smaller light source produces more direct and less diffused light, resulting in sharper shadows and higher contrast. This is why the small flashes found on point and shoot cameras are ideal for creating this style of photography.
Off-Camera Flash for Flexibility and Control
You can also go off-camera using a flash transmitter. This allows you to move the flash to any angle that you prefer, giving you more control over the direction and quality of the light. Off-camera flash can be particularly useful when you want to create dramatic lighting effects or when the on-camera flash is not providing the desired results. It also allows for more creative freedom, as you can experiment with different lighting setups.
Having a good Background Selection
The background plays a crucial role in this style of photography. Something super colourful or gritty really helps with adding edginess to the image. If you prefer a dark background, you can pull your subject away from the background, in this instance a wall. Then, you can either reduce your aperture, ISO (or throw on an ND filter if you want the same setting) to remove as much ambient light as you desire and increase the flash power or bring the flash closer to the subject to compensate for the “loss of light” the camera is capturing.
Softening the Harshness
If you feel that the light is too harsh for your liking, you can also get yourself a diffuser. A diffuser will scatter the light, softening the shadows and reducing contrast. For a softer look to the image, you can use a Godox ML CD15 to throw your light everywhere.
The Art of Control: Manual Flash Controls
Understanding harsh light is something that can’t be theorised. It requires practice and time. But the good thing is, it’s easy to start. The hard part is if you want overall control over it all, you need to delve into manual flash controls. It might seem scary at first, but once it clicks, you’ll feel grateful for your efforts. I typically start my flash power between 1/8 - 1/32 with a Godox V1 ( or any similar powered Speedlight) using the X Sync (X sync is the fastest shutter speed your camera can handle before it goes out of sync with the flash, anything faster and you’ll get Black Bars in your images - this does not apply to Leaf or Global Shutters)
Remember, photography is as much about the journey as it is about the destination. So don’t be afraid to experiment, make mistakes, and learn from them. Happy shooting!