Metty Unuabona - London Based Documentary and Portrait Photographer

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Why 80s and 90s Photography Styles Are Making a Comeback: The Power of Nostalgia in Portraiture, Fashion, and Documentary Photography

The resurgence of 80s and 90s photography styles has become a prominent trend, especially in portraiture, fashion, and documentary photography. This period, iconic for its aesthetics and freedom of expression, continues to capture the imaginations of today’s photographers and creatives. But what is it about this era that makes it so beloved? Why do people feel compelled to mimic its distinct visual style, even with the advent of advanced digital technology?

The answer lies not only in the nostalgia for an era gone by but also in the unique qualities of film photography, the cultural shifts of the time, and the boldness of the photographers who helped shape visual culture in both the US and UK.

The Iconic Look of 80s and 90s Photography: More Than Just Aesthetic

The appeal of 80s and 90s photography goes beyond a mere retro trend. These images, shot on film, possess a distinct tactile quality that modern digital photography often lacks. Film photos, especially those captured with point-and-shoot cameras, are celebrated for their grain, contrast, and imperfections, giving them a timeless charm. Each image feels tangible, almost like a small piece of art—imperfectly beautiful and rich in texture.

Photographers today long for that visual touch—the organic grain, the unexpected light leaks, and the unpredictable results that come with film. These are characteristics that, despite all the technological advancements, digital photography struggles to authentically replicate.

In fashion and portrait photography, for instance, the "hard flash look" produced by point-and-shoot cameras with small, direct light sources became synonymous with the casual yet edgy vibe of 90s pop culture. It’s the look you get from candid backstage photos, gritty street portraits, and spontaneous moments captured at nightclubs. It's a style that has found its way back into mainstream visual culture through social media platforms, where photographers and influencers attempt to recreate that raw, honest look of decades past.

Portraiture and Fashion: A Time of Unbridled Expression

In the 80s and 90s, especially in the UK and the US, fashion and portraiture photography were spaces of radical experimentation. Think of Alexander McQueen’s rebellious designs paired with the bold visuals of photographers like Nick Knight or Corinne Day. They were the pioneers of a new photographic language, one that pushed the boundaries of beauty and conventionality.

For many photographers during this time, the sky was the limit, especially for those daring enough to challenge the status quo. Whether established or emerging, they had the opportunity to carve their place in the world of art and fashion by being seen, recognized, and endorsed by leading designers, editors, and creatives of the time. The collaboration between fashion and photography created a visual landscape that was as much about cultural commentary as it was about style.

Documentary Photography: Capturing a Moment in Time

When it comes to documentary photography, especially in the 90s, the rules of engagement were entirely different than they are today. Photographers could follow public figures like Robbie Williams or catch candid street scenes without the intense scrutiny of privacy laws. There was a certain unspoken agreement between photographers and their subjects—a mutual understanding of the roles they played in shaping public perception. Today, privacy concerns and heightened expectations around consent have changed the way photographers operate.

In the 90s, photographers had the freedom to stalk celebrities and sell these candid images to tabloids, which paid big money for a glimpse into the personal lives of public figures. Today, while paparazzi culture still exists, it’s often viewed with disdain, and covert operations are more likely to be frowned upon. Press passes and stage passes are now essential for gaining access to events and personalities, ensuring that photographers are there to work, not to intrude.

Yet, as we look back at images from those days, many have stood the test of time because they represent something more than just moments. They serve as time capsules—windows into a world where things felt simpler, rawer, and more tangible. Photographers were storytellers in the truest sense, able to capture not just a scene but an entire cultural moment.

The Tactility of Film: Why We Miss It So Much

The decline of film photography, ushered in by the rise of digital technology, plays a major role in why people yearn for the aesthetic of the 80s and 90s. Film, with its tangible quality, forced photographers to be deliberate and patient. Each shot mattered because film was finite, and developing it required time, money, and care.

In contrast, digital photography allows for infinite shots and instant feedback, but this convenience often comes at the cost of the serendipitous magic that film provides. The unpredictability of film photography—whether it’s a light leak, a bit of motion blur, or a beautifully imperfect composition—is something that modern photographers miss. And though retouching and grading tools have made it possible to mimic these filmic characteristics, they can never quite recreate the feel of holding a freshly developed photo in your hand or seeing the results of a carefully composed image on paper.

Steve McCurry’s famous “Afghan Girl” is a prime example of this. The emotional depth and timeless beauty of the image are not just a result of the subject’s piercing gaze but the tactile, almost painterly quality that film imparts. Digital replicas can capture the essence but not the soul of such images.

The Heart and Tenacity of an Era

What makes the photography of this era so beloved, especially in the UK, is that it wasn’t just about the technology or the aesthetics; it was about the tenacity and heart of the individuals behind the lens. Going back even further to the 60s, the UK experienced a cultural revolution where those with the grit to try were able to make it. Photographers, musicians, designers—people who were willing to push boundaries and take risks—found themselves creating visual and cultural legacies that continue to inspire today.

This DIY ethos continued into the 80s and 90s, where creativity flourished in an environment that allowed for experimentation, rebellion, and bold statements. Many of the images from this time are not just photographs but symbols of defiance, individuality, and raw creativity.

Conclusion: Why the 80s and 90s Photography Styles Are Here to Stay

The resurgence of 80s and 90s photography styles isn’t just a fleeting trend; it’s a longing for an era where imperfections were celebrated, boldness was rewarded, and film photography created a sense of magic that digital has yet to fully capture. While we may never be able to recreate the exact conditions of that time—both culturally and technologically—we can continue to draw inspiration from it. From the hard flash look of point-and-shoot cameras to the grain and texture of film, we can embrace these nostalgic elements while adding our modern twist.

In the end, 80s and 90s photography represents more than just an aesthetic—it’s a reminder of a time when photography was a labor of love, and each image felt like a personal, tactile connection to the moment.

FAQs

  1. Why are people nostalgic for 80s and 90s photography? People miss the tactile quality, imperfections, and emotional depth that film photography of this era provided, qualities that digital technology often lacks.

  2. Can modern digital cameras replicate the look of film photography? While advancements in retouching and grading tools can mimic film's aesthetic, they can never fully capture the tangible, organic feel of film photography.

  3. What made portraiture and fashion photography in the 80s and 90s stand out? The era was marked by bold experimentation, pushing the boundaries of beauty and convention. Iconic collaborations between designers and photographers gave rise to some of the most memorable visual moments in fashion history.

  4. How has privacy in documentary photography changed since the 90s? In the 90s, photographers had more freedom to capture candid shots of celebrities and public figures without the same privacy concerns we have today. Today, privacy laws and ethical considerations have significantly impacted the way photographers operate.

  5. What is the ‘hard flash look’ in photography? The hard flash look is achieved using point-and-shoot cameras with small flash units, creating direct, harsh lighting that gives photos an edgy, candid feel often associated with 90s nightlife and pop culture.